Top 5: Jewelry Labels to Watch Vol. I

Jewelry brands take front and center in this new hey woman! series. This time it’s all about Anissa Kermiche, Sophie Bille Brahe, Alighieri, Charlotte Chesnais and Sophie Buhai

For me, jewelry is a fascinating universe. Gold or silver, small or large, understated or sparkling – it can give an outfit an entirely new message, be a statement, or perfectly complement a fashion. I love to discover new labels, watch what the established houses and jewelry designers are doing, and admire their craft. From minimalism and avant-garde to opulence, the multiple facets that these respective creative forces lend to their work is the reason for this series. Part one is dedicated to designers Anissa Kermiche, Sophie Bille Brahe, Sophie Buhai, Charlotte Chesnais, and Rosh Mahtani.

Anissa Kermiche

Anissa Kermiche | ©PR

It all started with fortune cookies. When Anissa Kermiche, a Frenchwoman living in London, saw them at a dinner, she found her inspiration for the Paniers Dorés. This pair of earrings would go on to be worn by influential ladies in the fashion world such as Leandra Medine and Camille Charrière and help her break out as a designer. Her label, founded in 2016, quickly attracted attention. Reports followed in Vogue, Sunday Times Style, and The Telegraph. The Frenchwoman with Algerian roots originally studied computer science, but the subject soon bored her and she trained as a jewelry designer at Central Saint Martins College. Works by artists such as François Morellet, Alexander Calder, and Constantin Brâncuși serve as a constant source of inspiration for her. She is beloved, and not just by us, for her clean lines and feminine creations, all with a portion of humor.

Favorites: Tatouage Choker, Diagonale Ring, Rubies Boobies Pendant

Instagram: @anissakermiche | Website: www.anissakermiche.com

 

Sophie Bille Brahe

Sophie Bille Brahe | ©Simon Bocker Morch

She would make sure there were bouquets in every room that would spread the feeling of her mood. That was the starting point for this collection; you can use flowers to express a feeling,” explains jewelry designer Sophie Bille Brahe. For her SS18 collection, the Danish designer drew inspiration from the writer Karen Blixen and expanded her range, which is very characterized by reduced forms revolving around a flower motif. Her Croissant de Lune earrings (18K yellow gold with small diamonds) are her most successful style to date and have been imitated many times. Bille Brahe founded her label in 2011 after graduating from the Royal College of Art in London. Her minimalistic, subtle, and intellectual approach is appreciated by her customers, who find luxury in its most unobtrusive form in her pieces. Reflections of gold and gems (she likes to use diamonds and sapphires) inspire her jewelry designs, but she also finds associations in poetry and Scandinavian design.

Favorites: Kelly Pavé Earring, Imagine Earring, Double Spiral Ring

Instagram: @sophiebillebraheltd  | Website: www.sophiebillebrahe.com

Sophie Buhai

Sophie Buhai | ©PR

Sophie Buhai’s designs look more like wearable sculptures than jewelry, so it’s hardly surprising that her pieces are also available in the shops of institutions like the Cooper Hewitt in New York or the Georgia O’Keefe Museum in Santa Fe. Sterling silver and clean silhouettes have come to characterize the label since it was founded in 2015. For purposes of sustainability, the Los Angeles-based designer produces all of her pieces from recycled metals. Before founding the jewelry line, she worked for ten years as creative director of the fashion label she co-founded, Vena Cava, which was honored as a “runner-up” at the 2008 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Prize. Buhai creates an artistic and intellectual universe around her work, which also includes objects such as furniture and tableware, as well as her portfolio as an interior designer. Alongside her longtime friend, designer Maryam Nassir Zadeh, she has developed a capsule collection of jewelry and accessories for this fall/winter season.

Favorites: Joan Bangle, Paloma Earrings, Wilke Cuff

Instagram: @sophiebuhai | Webseite: www.sophiebuhai.com

Charlotte Chesnais

Charlotte Chesnais | ©Saskia Lawaks

Charlotte Chesnais worked for Balenciaga under Nicolas Ghesquière for nine years. During this time, she was involved in the ready-to-wear line and supported the launch of the jewelry line. This would prove to be important experience that she was able to use later when launching her own label in 2015. Organic silhouettes, forms that melt into each other – she lends works of geometric fantasy her very own signature. Charlotte Chesnais translates her ideas into reality with the help of gold and vermeil (silver coated with a fine layer of gold) and likes to use gems like sapphires and amethysts. The Frenchwoman, who once studied at Studio Berçot in Paris, has seen her designs develop a cult following over the years. Her jewelry can now be found in more than 60 boutiques worldwide. She acted as a consultant for several labels including Kenzo, Maiyet, and Maison Kitsuné. She also develops accessories and jewelry with the French house Paco Rabanne and consults for A.P.C .

Favorites: Saturn Earrings, Hook Earring, Clover Earring

Instagram: @charlottechesnais  | Website: www.charlottechesnais.fr

 

Alighieri

Rosh Mahtani | ©PR

Rosh Mahtani wants to tell stories with her label Alighieri. Inspired by Italian poet and philosopher Dante Alighieri’s The Divine Comedy, she has created a dream-inducing universe of jewelry. And so we find ourselves again in Mahtani’s world of broken love stories, whirlwind adventures, and distant lands. Each piece in her collections corresponds to one of the poet’s 100 poems. The London-based designer studied French and Italian at Oxford University and worked as a stylist and in e-commerce before founding her label. But Alighieri’s stories did not let her go, and she translated her fantasies into the jewelry that became her passion. Her filigree works look like modern heirlooms that can tell stories of many an adventure. Their silhouettes and shapes appear to be cast at random – the imperfection is their perfection. Mahtani’s prefered material is bronze, which is often covered with gold.

Pretty: Recently, Rosh Mahtani partnered with the British label Joseph to create a series of jewelery with silver necklaces, earrings and bracelets.

Favorites: The Infernal Storm Earrings, The False Promise Ring, The Dreamer’s Reality Earrings

Instagram: @alighieri_jewellery  | Website: www.alighieri.co.uk

Madeleine is a fashion journalist. For as long as she can remember she has been passionate about fashion and accessories, in particular cashmere sweaters and jewelry. After five years of working at Vogue Germany’s fashion department in Munich, she decided to encounter a new challenge and move to Berlin. Her role at hey woman! allows her to combine her passion for styling, creative directing and writing. Madeleine is also good at imitating a Swiss accent and trying to be a cook.

©Phillip Schlegel