Recap: New York Fashion Week February 2016

©Collage / Julia Zierer

As always, we arrive in New York and the thermometer sinks into the minus double-digits. But, in comparison to the tropically warm Berlin, what almost caused a nervous breakdown last year was totally bearable this year – even if some of us only packed the chicest and thinnest coats (after all, the sun was shining down on us for most of the time). The meeting of the crème de la crème of the fashion industry never goes without a good dose of grapevine and so the recently published news from Tommy Hilfiger and Proenza Schouler, that the individual looks presented on the runways are available for purchase on their website, gives up the last of the traditions. Even the stadium filled by Kanye West to present his new album in parallel with the latest Yeezy collection indicated “new beginnings.” The end consumer is more focused than ever and to that we say: Bring on change, it can only make everything more exciting! Also new this season (no, not even the double-digit minus temperatures can knock us out of our seats): there’s rarely been so much Snapchat. I followed Vogue with eagle eyes, and they did an exemplary job (the traditional brand has quite adequately arrived in the digital age).


Personal Highlight: At the risk of repeating myself: Marc Jacobs! Even on the way to the show, super punctual and internally already recapping the NY shows, I secretly hoped for another spectacle. And I wasn’t disappointed!!! Back in the Park Avenue Armory, Marc’s favorite location (after last season’s jaunt to the Ziegfeld Theater) I almost immediately walked into Juliette Lewis – I mean, really? For me, she’s not only a terrific actress and my teenage icon, but also simply the perfect Marc Jacobs girl. Then radiant white. A huge circus-like arena with ushers holding massive letters high so that we could find our way. The front row was, as always, filled with the best, Sofia Coppola, Kiernan Shipka, Zosia Mamet, and so on, and complimented by the flashiest drag queens in total MK. Of course, at 5:59 pm the show started on time with torturously shrill tones that almost brought everyone to tears. The looks were immediately reminiscent of the SS16 collection – baseball sweaters, baggy jeans, fine lace, asymmetrical layers of fur, only the color gamut was different, namely “Shades of Darkness” combined with platform sandals that would definitely make the New York Dolls pale with envy. These incredibly adorned towering, fairytale-like models were so incredible that you almost forgot the aforementioned screeching sound. There was a little blond that was only noticeable at first because she was two heads smaller than everyone else, then, at second glance you realized: GAGA!

Best Show(s): Definitely Altuzarra! Especially the softly falling, wide-swinging silk bandanna print dresses with pearl buttons. My favorite had a ribbed turtleneck underneath. The print could also be found on a shearling parka and the bag collection grew with a small saddlebag with a chain was wrapped in the same bandana. The amazing shoes screamed “WANT WANT WANT” even louder. Here, again, my favorite: the ankle boot with an all over bandanna print, next to the silk scarf covered Mary Janes and the fantastic over the knees with croc imprints. At Michael Kors I was once again fascinated how relaxed true luxury can appear. And at the re-see I found out where it came from: for the daily “school run” through the Hamptons Michael’s mom regularly threw one of her furs on over her silk nightgown underneath. My absolute favorite was the embroidered glitter pants with the cashmere sweater.

Best Location: Sjes Marjan showed in a demolished loft overlooking the water and the sun fell through the room’s high windows, as ordered. It’s obvious that Sander Lak, former assistant to Dries van Noten, definitely presented a head start with his first show. Bureau Betak produced, Vetements Lotta Volkova styled and Consulting PR ensured the right public appeared, lead by Anna Wintour, Natalie Massenet and the buyers from Barneys, where the collection will be exclusively launched.

Best Dinner: Once again, I might be accused of being repetitive: Edun and the collector’s magazine Office set the table with incredible views of the night skyline from the penthouse of the Standard Hotel on the East Side. At dessert Bono told me how much respect he has for Angela Merkel and what the most important rules are when dealing with the paparazzi.

Favorite Model: Yana from Women Management, full name Yana Bovenistier. At first glance the Belgian is the Latina version of Mica Arganaraz (who is from Argentina), at second glance she’s simply a badass.

Best Surprise: My pre-visit to Calvin Klein’s studio. Creative Director Francisco Costa overcame the enormously stressful moments of the fitting countdown before the show in a good mood. Inspiring!


Personal Highlight: At 33 one is really too old to be a fan of someone, above all, when it’s a woman that just passed 40. I’ve made an unflinching exception with Chloe Sevigny and it’s no secret that for me, after Kate Moss, she’s the personification of “you can have it all” – she never seems to be forced into adulthood and still looks fresh on top. Along with Michel Gaubert we were invited to a lunchtime tea in New York at Cafiero Select, a well-curated shop for interiors, to celebrate a cooperation with the perfume label “Regime des Fleurs” from Los Angeles. Standing shoulder to shoulder next to Rachel Chandler, Hari Nef and their consortium, we smelled bottles of perfume until we were high.

Best Show(s): Veronika and I have clearly divided responsibilities on the go – per city I generally allow myself one show at most. Much too late I realized that the presentation from The Row would have been worth a visit and to compensate for my miss I headed to Rosie Assoulin. Colorful candles, piano music, awesome girls, central location, dreamy designs: Yes, I have these princess moments from time to time. It was a similar situation at Delpozo. Camille Charriere of “Camille Over the Rainbow” texted “This is Art” in her Snapchat post and my dear friend Stephanie, who is currently writing an essay about the sci-fi film Metropolis at the Courtauld Institute in London, sent me a similar comment. The film was also the inspiration for this stunning collection.

Best Art: Yup, starting the week with a visit to the Guggenheim Museum counts as “work” for me. Lucky me, anyone want to give me a pinch? The solo show “How to Work Better” from Fischli and Weiss kidnapped me to a completely different world for an hour. I’ve seen both videos, The Way Things Go and The Least Resistance, before…  

Best Surprise: Designer Misha Nonoo and Rewardstyle invited us to her house and was the epitome of a perfect hostess. The guests wanted for nothing and a palm reader armed with a flashlight sat next to the bar. We didn’t miss out on this opportunity and know more now than we did before. 2016, bring it on.

Translation: Alicia Reuter