Recap: London Fashion Week September 2015

London Fashion Week Recap Collage
© Collage Julia Zierer


  • Best Show: There’s a lot to be said for Erdem. The first store of fashion designer Erdem Moralioğlu recently opened on the tasteful South Audley Street and he’s just released his eco-age collaboration with Livia Firth for Net-a-Porter. But inspiring above all was Canadian’s (with British-Turkish roots) darkly romantic show in a pitch-dark King’s Cross Theater. At every single one of the 35 exits (these are the looks that were presented at the shows – no pants to be seen!) my heart beat a little faster. I barely made a mental note, “This one is the most beautiful,” before being surprised by the next breath-taking outfit. Of course, Erdem always has a special source of inspiration. This time it was so-called “Prairie Madness,” which recognized many of the pioneers who were to make the Great Plains fertile after Abraham Lincoln’s Hampstead Act of 1862. Read more in Mr. Tim Blank’s review.
  • Personal Highlight: The tribute to my favorite collection from Nicolas Ghesquière (2002 for Balenciaga) continued in London. I was reminded of it by the first seven looks from Mary Katrantzou. I found her interpretation of ribbing on legs and arms especially exciting.
  • Interesting Detail: The powder pink carpet at Emilia Wickstead and then seeing that the benches at J.W.Anderson were the same color.
  • Best Dinner: The #BOF500 dinner at London Edition with Daisy Lowe, Oliver Sim from The xx, Tim Blanks and Stefano Pilati as table neighbors, including a great speech by BoF founder Imran Amed.
  • Favorite Restaurant: Granger & Co in Clerkenwell is incredibly quiet. In addition to the classic “Bill’s menu (the scrambled eggs and sweetcorn fritters are incredibly good), the set-up is wonderfully meditative because it’s simple yet stylish and by combining generous windows with mirrors above, very green as well. The best: The rose tiles in the bathrooms are #instaheaven!


My enjoyment of London Fashion Week took a delicate 36 hours. My plan to get the most out of this limited period of time seems to have been a success. The only show I visited was Burberry. Otherwise, I found myself in meetings, which all went wonderfully, but naturally have no place in a review like this one.

Once again, I noticed something in particular – in London and New York people on the streets simply walk faster. And yet, or perhaps because of it, I meet old friends, usually by chance, and everyone has some news about new jobs or projects. My personal highlight was a reunion with a once very close friend who kindly smuggled me into the Love Magazine and Miu Miu party (unfortunately, no photos possible).

Briefly back to fashion, after their trip through pastel, paisley and even hand-painted flowers, Burberry finally has an inclination towards a hard cut. The collection had been shown the night before on Snapchat and on show day creative director Christopher Bailey sent his models to the runway mostly dressed in black, clean cuts and with backpacks, to the sounds of an orchestra. Regardless, there was no lack of black lace and delicate beige. The model casting was surprisingly different, fewer familiar faces and a whole lot younger than usual. Laughing in the front row: Kate Moss and Cara Delevingne. We concluded with a pleasant message from the capital: It doesn’t hurt to tread on new terrain every now and then!

translation: Alicia Reuter