Jewelry labels take center stage in the new hey woman! series. This time we focus on Denitza Margova, Annelise Michelson, Annie Costello Brown, Anna Lindeman from Nalin Studios, and Ina Beissner
I think jewelry is fascinating. Whether gold or silver, small or large, subtle or sparkling, it can lend a whole new mood to an outfit, be a statement, or perfectly complement fashion. I like to discover new labels while keeping an eye on the established houses and jewelry designers and admiring their craft. From minimalism and the avant-garde to the opulent, the many facets that these particular creative people bring to their work form the reason for this series. Following up on Part One, this report is dedicated to the designers Denitza Margova, Annelise Michelson, Annie Costello Brown, Anna Lindeman from Nalin Studios, and Ina Beissner.
1 / 7
Denitza Margova designs jewelry you don’t want to take off. Inspired by friends and family, the filigree designs often bear their names. As did the first bright neon bracelets that Margova designed when she had just founded her label and named them after her best friends.
Since 2014, the Berlin-based Bulgarian artist has been creating small treasures that are usually made of 14-karat gold and often rounded off with precious stones such as sapphire, onyx, peridot, or tourmaline. Margova produces her designs under fair conditions in her hometown in Bulgaria. She was able to successfully establish her label within four years, which comes down to her delicate, feminine, and girlish designs on one hand and her clear visual language on the other. Alongside photographer Nicolas Kantor, she has produced high-quality campaigns that were characterized by modern aesthetics right from the start. Most recently we were admiring her Jiggle Ring on model Hayett McCarthy – paired with a bright red lip. Margova will launch a capsule collection at the beginning of April that will move away from her previous designs for the first time: Inspired by the women of her family, she’s created jewelry that interprets traditional Bulgarian heirlooms in a modern way. This includes ornamental gold rings and earrings made of solid yellow gold.
Favorites: The What Goes Around earrings, the Lullu ring, the Tiny ring, the Baby D Carre ring
1 / 8
It all started when a friend asked Annelise Michelson if she could design jewelry for a Vogue Paris shoot by Carine Roitfeld. At the time, she had graduated from the renowned Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture and worked as a ready-to-wear designer for houses like Vanessa Bruno and Hermès. Jewelry was not her focus then, but she agreed and the foundation for her jewelry label was laid.
Since 2012, she’s been designing pieces under her name for women who want to see themselves in self-confident jewelry. Michelson’s designs live on organically curved and formally strong silhouettes that are often reminiscent of sculptural art objects and inspired by natural elements – the Solar collection, for example, recreates symbols such as earth, fire, and volcanic craters. The Paris-based designer favors gold-plated bronze, often combined with silver. Today, the stores that stock her pieces include Bergdorf Goodman, Selfridges, and Le Bon Marché.
Favorites: The Broken Chain earrings, the Ellipse earrings, the Lava earrings
Annie Costello Brown
1 / 10
Annie Costello Brown sees herself more as an artist than a jewelry designer: She has been making her pieces by hand since 2006. Her large chandelier earrings are especially reminiscent of artful mobiles. Costello Brown was born in San Francisco and grew up among artists in the 70s on a houseboat. Today she lives and produces her works in Los Angeles. She values freedom and free time and she has worked with slower processes and a small, high-quality product range for years. In times when things cannot go fast enough, the pay-off of this long-term strategy is particularly noticeable. The hype around her designs, which stand out due to their geometric qualities, has never been greater. The influence of her mother, a goldsmith, as well as her art and sculpture studies, can still be felt everywhere and is also reflected in her material sensibilities. Costello Brown prefers to work with gold-plated sterling silver and brass. In an interview she said: “For me, jewelry is part of an artful, personal expression, not necessarily one of wealth or luxury. The value comes from how the material is transformed.”
Favorites: The Arc Drop Chandelier earrings, the Acrobat Necklace necklace, the Rain Dusters earrlings
1 / 8
“My parents sold antique strass brooches and jewelry. I was obsessed with all the girls who were buying these pieces,” says Anna Lindeman. Her jewelry label Nalin Studios, which she founded more than a year ago, is characterized by an unusual concept. She designs only one piece per month, which is then sold for that length of time. After that, production stops unless demand is huge. Nalin Studios is among the guards of young labels for which Instagram plays an essential role in terms of image and sales. The pieces are made by hand in southern Spain, which is why she recently moved from Amsterdam to be near the small atelier. Delicate necklaces with pendants and amulets that look like heirlooms, often with small messages in French, belong to Nalin Studios’ aesthetic. “Since childhood I have always had a weakness for vintage jewelry and pieces that were from my grandmother,” philosophizes Lindeman about her inspiration.
Favorites: L’Amour necklace, Paris bracelet, Kiss necklace
1 / 9
Ina Beissner started her label in 2011 with silver and brass designs after graduating from the Instituto Europeo Di Design in Milan and gaining experience at Vogue Spain and Proenza Schouler. She soon became famous for bells on necklaces, earrings, and rings. Over time, the Lima-born, Berlin-based artist developed a desire to design smaller, higher quality collections. At the end of 2015, she decided to concentrate exclusively on real jewelry and to invest in sustainable pieces. Beissner’s jewelry is now mostly handmade in Antwerp from 18-karat gold, often with diamond appliqué. The “In Ear Hoop” earrings were among the first pieces to quickly became favorites, even in magazines like Vogue Paris. Her pieces draw their liveliness from a purism that attracts attention despite very clean design. This approach is appreciated by her customers, who find that her creations express both modernity and femininity in their most beautiful forms.
Favorites: In Ear Hoop earrings, Lua Double ring, Chikka Large Pavé earrings with baguette studs
Madeleine is a fashion journalist. For as long as she can remember she has been passionate about fashion and accessories, in particular cashmere sweaters and jewelry. After five years of working at Vogue Germany’s fashion department in Munich, she decided to encounter a new challenge and move to Berlin. Her role at hey woman! allows her to combine her passion for styling, creative directing and writing. Madeleine is also good at imitating a Swiss accent and trying to be a cook.