Berlin restaurant Pappa e Ciccia and journalist Antje Wewer are publishing a cookbook – with a little help from their creative friends
Antje Wewer is a journalist and lives in Berlin. Nicole Schuman runs Antje’s favorite restaurant, Pappa e Ciccia – with an organic approach, and very successfully for more than ten years now. That’s reason enough to finally put out a cookbook made collaboratively with the creative friends and guests of the restaurant. The book is intended as an independent venture and a crowdfunding campaign has been set up that will run until the 26th of January 2017. Here, Antje explains exactly what her project is about.
The idea came about on a Saturday afternoon, si chiaro, in Pappa e Ciccia. I’m a regular at the restaurant because they have pasta that my husband and son love – as well as fresh fish for me and maybe the best tomato salad in town.
What’s more, I actually always run into someone by chance when I’m there. I like that “small town” feeling, something that only a few places in Berlin give me. And I like the Italian attitude that everything is only half as bad when you’ve had a good meal.
At Pappa e Ciccia (which means as much as “thick as thieves” when translated), a bunch of interesting people go in and out. Certainly that has to do with the fact that a lot of people can agree on (organic!) Italian food, but also that the owner Nicole Schuman is such a good host. She started with an illegal restaurant in Milan, back when there were no foodies and everyone still ate carbs after dark. Back in Berlin, she opened an Italian snack bar on Skalitzer Straße and later moved to Schwedter Straße – at the corner of Choriner Straße – to open her restaurant.
The father of Nicole’s almost-adult daughter Billie is Italian, so what’s more she also speaks fluent Italian. Strictly speaking, Nicole isn’t a chef, but she knows a hell of a lot about pasta and how to create new dishes that make urbanites happy. And when we were at Casa Rosa (her family’s holiday home in Tellaro) to develop the concept for our book, she personally cooked some pretty good meals for me. Down below, so now all readers can make it themselves: linguine frutti di mare.
As a rule, cookbooks are designed by a photographer; we wanted to do it a little differently and asked creative friends of the restaurant to each take over a chapter. Sarah Illenberger illustrated the ingredients; Peter Langer, who brings the visual element to the style columns in Zeitmagazin during the week, took care of the desserts; Anna Rose photographed the regular guests with the dish of their choice; Swede Erik Wahlström the Antipasti, and Robin Kranz the pasta dishes.
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Work on the book stretched over two years as we were working on it more intensely at some times than others. In the first place, Nicole runs her restaurant as a one-woman-show, and I work as the editor for the magazine Salon. Now our work is done. We decided we wanted to publish it ourselves and have set up a crowdfunding campaign. You can pre-order a book under “Rewards” and help us finance the printing costs. Mille grazie, ragazzi!
Author: ANTJE WEWER
(9) Linguine frutti di mare – Linguine with Shellfish
This dish actually came about because fishermen would bring the rest of their catch – the shellfish that were still laying on their ship’s deck – home to their wives. Over the years it’s developed into a Spaccone-Piatto (a show-off dish) since it looks so impressive on a plate.
To do it justice, there needs to be at least three different kinds of seafood. Fresh chili pepper is essential to this dish – but absolutely check the level of heat before cooking. We normally use medium hot ones because we use the flesh and seeds. Our fish stock is homemade, but there are also readymade ones that are perfectly acceptable.
Ingredients – Serves Four
- 500 g (17 oz.) linguine
- 200 g (8 oz.) clams
- 200 g (8 oz.) mussels
- 200 g (7 oz.) cuttlefish
- 300 g (11 oz.) small octopus
- 150 ml (5 oz.) fish stock
- 2 cloves of garlic
- 1 half-bunch of parsley (4 stems)
- 50 ml (1.5 oz.) white wine
- 1 lemon
- 5 bay leaves
- 1 fresh chili pepper
- native olive oil
- coarse salt
- fleur de sel
- Place the clams and mussels in a bowl of cold water. Clean with a steel brush and separate out the ones that have opened. Generally speaking, male mussels have lighter, more yellow flesh while the females are rather orange.
- Put on three liters of salted water for the pasta.
- Cook the octopus with a whole lemon and the bay leaves in a generous amount of salt water.
- Remove from the water after 40 minutes, let cool, and then cut into finger-thick slices.
- Wash the cuttlefish and cut into ½ centimeter (approx. ¼ inch) rings.
- Pour five tablespoons of olive oil into a pan and quickly fry the prepared garlic cloves and coarsely chopped chili pepper together and then add the octopus and cuttlefish. Add a small ladle of white wine (approx. 50 milliliters or 1.5 fluid ounces) and allow to keep cooking.
- When the alcohol has evaporated, pour in the fish stock.
- Add the clams and mussels after five minutes, cover, and continue to simmer until the shells have opened. Remove from the stove and place to the side. Wash the parsley and finely chop.
- Cook the linguine according the directions on the packet, drain, and combine in a bowl with the seafood mixture. Divide among four plates and garnish with shellfish and parsley.
Julia co-founded one of the first fashion blogs in Germany in 2007 and became a freelance consultant for digital strategies after publishing her first book in 2010. After an eventful four years with Condé Nast working mainly in the digital department of Vogue Germany, she decided to launch her own online magazine with her dream partner, Veronika Heilbrunner. She is based in Berlin and loves to read books.