Review: New York Fashion Week Spring / Summer 2018

©Collage / Oriane Baud

New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2018 kicked off the fashion month and Veronika Heilbrunner shares her highlights

Favorite Show: The Row

Always effortless and simply the show that makes everyone smile when it’s mentioned!

For me, one of the many reasons for that lies in the choice to present the collection to a very small crowd – the trick is to make it very short and do a few time slots rather than one impersonal, delayed show – combined with a complementing location. This time they went a bit out of their way, changing the location from the usual, very clean and streamlined space (an empty gallery, their flagship store, their HG) and inviting guests to the Café Carlyle, a New York institution with a grand piano, murals on the walls, and gorgeous tables equipped with the perfect ingredients for breakfast.

If you follow my Instagram (@veronikaheilbrunner) and think the view of the croissants is what made me fall in love, you should know that the clothes were breathtakingly beautiful. There is absolutely no change in the silhouette or style, but isn’t that the beauty of it? There were amazing additions to a lovely parade of classy hits, especially in the evening department. I loved the dusty pink, silk gown and its “sister garments” in lilac, red, and chocolate brown as well as the silver, beaded net piece on top of a black gown. As was said to Nicole Phelps (for voguerunway.com), Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen wanted something softer, more romantic. And they combined these dresses with their signature white sneakers. That was the part I loved most!

Favorite Look: Calvin Klein

Raf’s take on the all-American brand is certainly something. He didn’t bring much new to the table for his second season: a similar show set at 205 W 39th street by Sterling Ruby, even a similar soundtrack. But he did refine the silhouettes, brightened the colors, and added new materials like rubber and satin. My favorites are the (now) more loosely cut uniform looks in shiny shiny satin (#ByeVelvetHiSatin)!

The most Instagrammed item from last time – the Brooke Shields label on the denim – was replaced by Andy Warhol motifs. And the steel cap cowboy boot of the season (every other editor invested in a pair) will also come in suede and more vibrant colors.

But I’m the happiest about the continuation of the “home-part” with more one-of-a-kind plaids! Plus, bags were introduced and the classic Obsession perfume bottles were even used like eye-catching charms on belts.

I’m convinced! And feel my two shopping trips to the amazing, freshly opened flagship store on Madison were justified.

Favorite Set: Marc Jacobs

 

Because I wasn’t able to see his amazing “silent show” last time, I was very happy when I realized that this season’s show was the second take on Marc’s minimal approach with maximal effect.

But let me start from the beginning: The Park Avenue Armory isn’t a new location for the designer. He has celebrated many glorious shows here. The enormous, football stadium-sized interior can host anything imaginable. So it’s even more impressive – if impressively disturbing – to then choose nothing. Literally nothing. Not even music. Only a miniature looking front row surround by the rectangular hall. The models marched in two rounds in a slightly confusing formation, leaving through the entrance left and right where the photographers were piled up, only to come back accompanied by what felt like an amazing relief – a very loud aria from the 1981 French film Diva.

I loved the return to the actual subject: fashion! In this case: loud colors, sporty boiler suits, oversized and rapper-worthy outfits, draped turbans embellished with sparkly pineapples, and somewhat ironic “genie in a bottle” costumes.

Favorite Happening: Ralph Lauren

 

What happens when a handpicked crowd of fashion people are invited to see an ultra-luxurious, one-of-a-kind vintage car collection that has never been shown to the public? Just the thought of it makes me smile again. It was beautiful. The aesthetic of these cars, their shapes, colors, and certainly their make and condition were incredible. Nevertheless, I don’t know so much about cars. So I took took lots of racy detail shots with my camera and finally found somebody – the talented Caroline Issa – to take a classy “pimp my ride” shot of me with a Batman and/or Knight Rider-worthy set of wheels. And after what felt like only a few seconds, but was actually several minutes of concentrated admiration, I realized that every single guest did the same.

Ralph Lauren’s invitation to his garage in Bedford, a two-hour drive outside of the city, was an amazing opportunity to understand his taste (and resulting success). Even when you’re not into cars, you turned into a car lover and overheard sentences like: “Oh, did you see the red one? No, the other red one, the one with the four wheels…” Or, as my dinner neighbor David Sims (lucky me!!!) put it: “I drive a van.”

Fashion-wise, the boiler suit (as worn by a good looking cast of young male waiters with “Ralph’s Garage” embroidered on the back) is the piece I would most love to own. Simply because it would serve as a great reminder of a very special moment, plus they’re authentic and fun.

Favorite Dinner: Maison Kitsuné

 

After sevens dinners in a row, I was feeling a very strong need for room service while trying to squeeze a wardrobe that had grown exponentially (thanks to those previously mentioned CK visits) into what now seemed to be a tiny suitcase on my last night in New York.

But being very German – and, therefore, very anti-last minute cancellations – I dragged myself to the shop opening on Lafayette. But once I saw the Kitsuné symbol, the fox, in cute US flag make-up, I forgot all about my tiredness and enjoyed the company of a genuinely cool and (!!!) nice mix of people, aka fashion merging with music in my favorite Japanese restaurant, Omen. Oh, and did I mention I got another ultra-cool dinner partner? Well, I wouldn’t have known had a few of my friends not secretly messaged me: I was opposite Daft Punk, sans helmet, and therefore my lack of recognition. Lol.

Favorite Presentation: DvF

 

Congratulations, Jonathan Saunders! For me, your third presentation really made it! As seen first-hand at the very busy presentation in the meatpacking district, I wasn’t the only one appreciating these fun looking pieces with the ability to be both easy and flamboyant! Plus, the sun shining through windows covered in all colors of foil made this quick visit a magic one. I can’t wait to see those fringes on the streets.

More Fashion Looks to see here:

 

More Events to see here:

The New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer2018 took place from September, 7th until September 13th 2017 in New York City. Get further information on its website here.

Born and raised in Munich/Germany, Veronika’s professional career has developed from being a model to a fashion editor, to online luxury retailing and most recently style editor of Harpers Bazaar Germany. She currently lives in Berlin where in the beginning of 2015 she started a company with Julia Knolle, the ex-editor at large of Vogue Digital.
Oh, and she loves pugs!