Review: London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2018

©Collage / Oriane Baud

London is the second stop during the Fashion Week month and Veronika’s personal favorite. Her insights and personal impressions

Favorite Show: Christopher Kane

For me, Christopher Kane is the one and only when it comes to nailing everything you want in the three minutes a show takes: a combination of romance and cool, badassery in pastel, geek gear with crystals, and so on. The models walked in a hexagon shape past show guests seated in the middle of what felt like the absolute underground of Tate Modern – you definitely weren’t getting any reception there. The lighting threw oversized shadows on the outside walls, which gave the happening just the right amount of “creepy” to counterbalance the beauty of the collection. Of course, certain shapes also added to that feeling: silk dresses with hugely distracting 70s-style ties instead of light and bouncing shawls, a harmless flower print on a rubber raincoat, or a ruffled t-shirt dress with a hospital gown-inspired open back that closed with ribbons.

My favorite pieces were white lace embroidered with crystals and the amazing evening looks made of what seemed like tulle, rubber, and macramé paired with his specialty shoe: an uber-ugly scuba-trekking sandal. BOOM.

Favorite Mood: Erdem

His shows have always started already when you walk in, and the dimly lit Old Selfridges Hotel is a fantastic space for Erdem’s ever-so-creative sets. This time, it felt like the cocktail lounge of a very elegant private club in the 50s. That means a wooden piano, velvet couches, a brass lamp in the form of a palm tree, and even half-full martini glasses.

As I was being seated next to those amazing British It Girls Alexa Chung, Laura Bailey, Daisy Lowe, and Erin O’Connor – all of whom I have long admired and now consider myself lucky to be acquainted or, even better, friends with – I realize there’s not even a possibility that I’m not going to love this show. And I’m not the only one. The excitement is omnipresent and increases with every look passing by. Pastels, lampshade shapes, embroidery, and royal red ribbons with argyle cardigans. Erdem was clearly inspired by the award winning series The Crown, which I loved so much I only needed two evenings to get through all of the episodes.

Favorite Location: Simone Rocha

When asked by the BFC (see video below) what I love most about being in London, of course they picked my loudest quote. But as trite as it may sound, it’s the complete truth: “I feel like Harry Potter!” I simply love the medieval, gingerbread house aesthetic of this gorgeous and monumental city. And Simone Rocha’s show was held in one of these type of places.

First of all, thank you for giving us fashion people a look into beautiful examples of British culture with every one of your shows – aside from just simply creating dreams to wear. In addition to the romantic clouds of tulle, silk, and fuzz, there were sleeker silk dresses in black and white that definitely caught my eye – when I could stop checking out the beautiful building that is Middle Temple Hall.

Favorite Look: J.W. Anderson

I’d say it’s kind of genius when a designer manages to give advanced shapes, materials, accessories – even colors – such a breath of simplicity that you don’t even ask yourself how and where you’d wear it, just how soon you can (… can I have it please!)? J.W. Anderson’s collection felt so fresh. I thought it was the first time he wasn’t trying to impress with too many details, and was just very confident instead.

Favorite Dinner: Off-White x Mytheresa

When the coolest DJ-turned-designer on the block (yes, I am talking about you, Virgil Abloh!) hosts a dinner with a luxury retailer, you can be sure to witness a wildly mixed crowd. Which is kind of similar to the ever-so-tasteful combo formed by Simone Gooch (aka Fjura)’s incredibly beautiful pale pink rose installation against the factory-like backdrop of the amazing restaurant (and insider tip) St. John. Let’s not forget the vodka shot bar in the bathroom…

Favorite Presentation: Burberry

The English mega-brand took over the newly restored and renovated Old Sessions House for their “see now, buy now” show – the collection was available online just minutes afterwards. My favorites were the rubber coats (yes, again), the lace dresses layered over oversized t-shirts, the hand-knitted socks, and especially the checked raincoats. Thanks to Gosha Rubchinskiy’s collab, Christopher Bailey brought back the long-avoided household pattern. I wandered through the house after the show and enjoyed the fabulous exhibition of English photography curated by Alasdair McLellan and Christopher Bailey. The doors are open to the public for two weeks, until October 2nd.

Soundtrack of the Moment: Pet Shop Boys

Yes: For the first time in a long time, there was no heavily romantic singer/songwriter situation at Burberry, and instead the Pet Shop Boys’ Go West… if you follow my Instagram Stories, you already know.

More Impressions:

The London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2018 took place from September, 14th until September, 19th 2017. Find all information on its website here.

Further impressions from all current Fashion Weeks can be found via Veronika’s Instagram account (@veronikaheilbrunner) here and via our very own Instagram account (@heywomancom) here.

Born and raised in Munich/Germany, Veronika’s professional career has developed from being a model to a fashion editor, to online luxury retailing and most recently style editor of Harpers Bazaar Germany. She currently lives in Berlin where in the beginning of 2015 she started a company with Julia Knolle, the ex-editor at large of Vogue Digital.
Oh, and she loves pugs!