Review: Haute Couture Spring / Summer 2017

©Collage / Oriane Baud

The Haute Couture Spring / Summer 2017 are over and Veronika Heilbrunner put together her highlights of the week in Paris – from Chanel to Vetements

I just arrived in icy-cold Paris, looking at it chronologically. Technically speaking, this was “Couture Week” – but actually it should be called “Couture Days” instead, the number of which is down to just three, intensively packed with lots of highlights and extreme contrasts. But read about it here in my notes, which I put together to be both quick and informative – and basically while I was still leaving the last show.

Best Looks: Chanel

Whether it’s because the settings are always making clearer references to the classic insignia of the house or not – and this time the models were walking through an XL cabinet of mirrors which was, of course, reminiscent of Coco’s famous hiding place on Rue Cambon where endless reflections meant she could watch her customer’s reactions during her presentations without being seen herself – the giant spectacle surrounding the Chanel Couture Show Spring/Summer 2017, which as always took place at the Grand Palais, is singularly superlative. And the same with the creations.

The ten super glamorous gowns in the finale were my absolute favorites – embroidered over and over, they looked like reflections themselves fitted with gossamer feathers or pastel belts. And I’m already looking forward to the celebrities that will look as timelessly breathtaking as endlessly cool while wearing them. Apropos: Lily-Rose Depp’s delicate pink “wedding dress” is a dream and with Karl on her arm as groom, she looked like the ultimate French teenage-princess aka La Boum 2.0 Goes Couture.

Best Invitation: Vetements

After the breezy ad-flyer and the plastic rose from the last shows, I actually thought it couldn’t get any more ingenious when it comes to invitations. And everyone who spent more than two minutes on Instagram between last weekend and last Tuesday already knows, because the newest invitation for the (now second) Vetements Couture Show sparked some outright Insta-madness: they consisted of cancelled personal documents (from driver’s licenses to ID cards) from around the world that were filled in with your name and address. So, you were only coming to this show with fake and invalid papers. Appropriately, the model casting was more than multifaceted: from X-large security to photographer and legend Horst Diekgerdes in corduroy, all the way to bookworm in gothic rags. From what’s coming to me right now, crazy-good is probably the best way to put it!

Best Party: Dior

Although I was initially still skeptical about the Valentino-ising of Dior, now it’s completely caught me. It might be a little confusing for loyal Valentino Couture customers that their ultra-elegant Valentino collection is now being quoted at Dior. I’m totally fine with it, in any case, because Maria Grazia Chiuri is unstoppable. And also by no means should she be stopped!

Now to the party: at sunset, Musée Rodin’s garden was punctually bathed in the (artificial) light of a full moon and a masked ball was rung in. Black and white unicorns herded darkly-masked guests into the mirrored tent where the lightly-modified show setting was taking place, a labyrinth of moss. Aside from what must have been the longest bar and chicest drink presentation in the world, one funfair sensation after another came along: starting with a fortune teller with a crystal ball (unfortunately the line was really, really long), twins synchronized dancing through windows in the hedge, and all kinds of artists that drew your gaze to them and (in a pleasant way) away from this planet’s superstars of today: Kendall Jenner (wearing black sunglasses instead of a mask) and Bella Hadid (the “face of the maison” wore, instead of a mask, nothing under a transparent astrology dress of the most delicate tulle).

So it wasn’t the usual scenario adhering to the motto of “the VIPs stand here and get bored” and those watching them stand on the other side, but rather a really roaring party for all involved. Certainly the most fantastic couture party since John Galliano’s Ball at Versailles.

Best Location: Ulyana Sergeenko

Spectacular and intimate at the same time, that’s how the wonderful Cirque d’Hiver in Marais appeared – completely bathed in red light – with Natalia Vodianova as the first and Doutzen Kroes as the last exit. Ulyana made it clear that she pulls in the real “Circus of the Stars.”

More Impressions:

Follow our journey during the upcoming Fashion Week marathon via our Instagram Account here and Veronika’s here.

Born and raised in Munich/Germany, Veronika’s professional career has developed from being a model to a fashion editor, to online luxury retailing and most recently style editor of Harpers Bazaar Germany. She currently lives in Berlin where in the beginning of 2015 she started a company with Julia Knolle, the ex-editor at large of Vogue Digital.
Oh, and she loves pugs!