The Resort Collections from Gucci, Chanel and Louis Vuitton bring back the summer in the cold of winter. 10 reasons why Veronika loves them
By now, the speed and ephemerality of collections are an inevitable part of the fashion cycle. Despite of that – or even because of it – the fourth season of the year, puts out the most exciting and wonderful creations, which I will verify in the following with 10 very good examples!
The location alone is reason enough to be placed as No.1: Westminster Abbey! Also there is the fantastic model casting from Hannelore Knuts to Anne Catherine Lacroix. And of course, the velvety pillows on the benches (not one was left lying there!). Other reasons to fall in love with the collection, include all the beautiful dresses, which have since caused me sleepless nights. And so has the question of how I can manage to get a hold of one of those fabulous logo hoodies. In addition, to that I need the Union Jack loafers, and will only be wearing Gucci tennis socks from now on. Then, I’ll be dreaming of parties at which I dance the entire night away in a pink silk dress to Because the Night by Patti Smith. But let’s not forget the top-notch front row – no surprise, but wonderful nonetheless: what everyone at hey woman! (whether they were in the office or on location) could agree on in a second was that Alexa Chung’s frilly dress and biker jacket combo was the best!
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Only Karl makes it possible: I wasn’t there on location unfortunately, but nevertheless I thought it was more than exceptional to choose Havana as the backdrop for such a spectacle and then to execute it so peerlessly! Just having all the guests arrive in vintage cars was a social media explosion. Here the vintage t-shirts were also my favorites (similarly at Gucci). And at the end of the day, Caroline de Maigret’s smile says more than a thousand words!
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3. Louis Vuitton
It’s totally clear here as well: pictures say more than words. And to come up with some about Nicolas Ghesquière’s futuristic sportswear creations in front of a breathtaking Oscar Niemeyer backdrop in Niteroi, that would deserve any number of gold medals (here, emojis would be great!!!). I especially like the #allblackeverything arrangement with all the VIP guests in the middle of a Brazilian idyll on the horizon and how this idea was carried over into the new collection. In short: sport is badass! My favorite details were the ghetto blaster tote, the neoprene Chelsea boots, and the sequin choker captured by Christine Centenera, Fashion Director of Vogue Australia.
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A bulky suit in a somber grey with elegant, glittery, flat sandals! It doesn’t just look good coming from the hands of Demna Gvasalia. Oversized tunics (that the Olsen twins would also like) have arms in different lengths, towels in the place of draped scarves, and the favorite shopper of the fashion victims goes to the next round! Bravo. There are a lot of reasons to fly off to a resort with just this collection and never come back!
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Contrary to all of the big, bigger, and bombastic attempts to make the Resort Collection into something unforgettable with locations and events, Erdem made personal appointments in his fantastic flagship short on South Audley Street in London’s Mayfair. He presented his collection, inspired by a trip to Japan, to two or a maximum of three guests at a time. Since I found the decision between the wonderful sky blue and white cotton robes and the gossamer organza or lace numbers so difficult, my personal winner was the embroidered biker jacket which he layered with a leather top like a twinset.
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Pink and gold embroidery, red with black leather, light blue lace with zebra pumps… all of that could look really trashy. But, thanks to the new master of “American Chic” aka Joseph Altuzarra, it all looks so good that you could simply freak out. Yes, please, I want ALL OF IT.
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The first look a grey suit, the last a black one: both men’s looks, because Miuccia always shows her women’s Resort Collection during the men’s show. Despite that, and maybe even because of it, her statement is more pioneering. Both of the suits were typical for the house, minimal with patch pockets and closing high with 4-buttons instead of deep lapels. But the styling here sets the tone: tracking backpack with lots of nylon straps, headband, and all sorts of tinkling and jingling everywhere. Fashion magazines could deem such a look a “modern city nomad”, but I would say that we’re now “back to the Prada roots”. Nylon, always minimal. Chic, but also functional. Good idea! As I see it, it works especially well as womenswear with the silk satin safari dinner jackets. While the models took quick strides down the runway, wearing plastic flats with hippie flowers on top, they sported bags with ironic high heel attachments, as a quirky detail. The setting was reminiscent of a 90’s techno temple, and looked simply brilliant.
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8. Acne Studios
A snow white dress, knotted on the side – it hardly gets more “Resort” than that. That of course would be too simple for Jonny Johansson, so he pumped it up with a print reminiscent of a diary cover from Florence or like running watercolors. And the theme extended into batik, which is where I loudly call out STOP! Because these ingredients, along with utility, down capes, and gradient knits whisper “Grateful Dead” (the band was said to be one of Jonny’s inspirations) and scream: “We need to be in your closet!!!”
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9. Wales Bonner
In fashion circles, it is no longer news, that the 25-year-old designer is the next big thing, as she quickly rose to fame because her themes are so outstanding and different: through her designs the St. Martin’s graduate deals with masculine identity and especially that of being a black male. This year she won both a British Fashion Award in the category of “Emerging Menswear Designer”, as well as the prestigious LVMH Prize. Her approach is very personal and works so well with the current world view, that she’ll definitely be going places. What I find so interesting about Grace Wales Bonner’s designs is the beauty of her ideas and creations. Secretly I’ve already bought a few pieces from her last collection and would almost say that, for women, they are more than unisex.
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Back when it was still without Maria Grazia Chiuri, the traditional house organized such a to-do for its Resort Collection in London’s beautiful Blenheim Palace that it was always a real pleasure. I especially had a lot of fun following the coverage of Vinyl star Juno Temple. And for all the other invited guests, even the pouring rain couldn’t ruin a trip on the “Diorient Express”. Understandably!
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Translation: Melissa Frost
Born and raised in Munich/Germany, Veronika’s professional career has developed from being a model to a fashion editor, to online luxury retailing and most recently style editor of Harpers Bazaar Germany. She currently lives in Berlin where in the beginning of 2015 she started a company with Julia Knolle, the ex-editor at large of Vogue Digital.
Oh, and she loves pugs!