The first work day of the year and the internet was already exploding with all things fashion—and wherever you looked, you saw the vividly toned photographs of wild youth shot by Glen Luchford in Berlin for Gucci. That we had noticed this campaign—and even before the official announcement landed in our mailbox—is simply another illustration of the powerful momentum pictures can gather as they spread through social media channels (and the internet in general).
Still, I love selecting my favorite images from the spring/summer 2016 campaigns via ePaper and the usual suspect glossy magazines, effectively my Top List that stays as it is for awhile and only gets adjusted when new things come across my screen. Which label is booking which model, which photographers and stylists? The games leaves me with a ongoing fascination every season, despite my occupational disease of very quickly becoming very bored of almost everything. Et voilà, my favorites:
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So, everyone take a moment to hold your breath. What an impressive shoot! Man, Valentino, what a wonderful idea to get Steve McCurry—who’s otherwise working for National Geographic—to be involved in this production. The cornrows in the hairs of the fairy-like models make for a good break, the fairytale-like gowns in any case. Above all it’s a good reminder that sometimes it really pays off to hire photographers from other fields, like when Jackie Nickerson shot Marte Mei Van Haaster for Marni’s winter 2015 campaign.
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A little lesbian chic always gets attention. Don’t get me wrong, I think it’s great. The spark between Kate Moss (Ok, Kate Moss is already enough of a reason to be listed here. Hi Kate!) and the fabulous Daria Werbowy is automatically captivating. Cass Bird and her wife Ali Bird have both shared beautiful impressions of these two models over the last year on their Instagram accounts. One wants to think that Ali contributed to the art direction as well. A nice add-on: the silk blouses, the ones it’s all actually about.
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Well, who do we have here? Theo Wenner, my favourite newcomer, who won me over with the Black Keys’ Weight of Love video brings the long-standing collaboration between creative team Inez and Vinoodh and Chloé to a (premature) end. “This campaign is very exciting for me because I really wanted to create a new energy for Chloé this season. Theo is a photographer I have worked with several times before, and I really appreciate his youthful eye and spontaneity behind the lens. Likewise, I wanted to bring new faces to Chloé as they represent a more adventurous, free-spirited, impulsive side of the Chloé girl,” said Clare Waight Keller, the label’s creative mastermind. She’s right, and Céline Bouly and Ari Westphal’s fresh faces match the look of the collection (alongside their colleagues Antonina Petkovic and Ilvie Wittek).
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While we’re on the topic of new faces, let’s quickly segue over to Lou Schoof. I don’t know where to start—look at this face. So out-of-this-time, so special, so gentle and innocent and pure, more of a Vermeer aesthetic just doesn’t happen (that’s also already occurred to the Americans). After the cover of Romanian Vogue, the 20-year-old German and her 17-year-old brother Nils are conquering the world’s photo shoots. For Bluemarine, she’s been shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, aka Inez and Vonoodh. Edward Enninful did the styling.
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We’re not alone in our love of collage. Phoebe Philo also allowed Juergen Teller’s visuals to be spiced up with a bit of scissors and paper. This “trend” caught the attention of the ladies at Fashionista, even when I simply still like to think how much I embrace the end result and what a fine hand the label still has when it comes to booking models (in this case Karly Loyce und Regitze Christensen). The lace dress is already the most-styled cover outfit (VOGUE UK and a secret TBA). SO it must be: cross-functional media placement—without having to lift a finger—“just” by putting the media machine into gear with a great visual result.
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I still remember my first press trip to an art fair all too well. Most popular question: What I looked for there, fashion people wouldn’t have any business in it in the first place—art wanted to keep to itself. That was a few years ago now and in the meantime the two professions have found a harmonious fusion. Brioni is illustrating that now. First coup: a shoot with gallerist David Zwirner, curator Hans Ulrich Obrist and Matthew Slotover from Frieze. Simple, elegant, and black and white. Second coup: Collier Schorr doesn’t just take the pictures, but puts herself in the scene. The series is called “Creative Minds”. The press release doesn’t explain any more about it. So simple, so completely sufficient—I love it!