Trend Report SS16: Nine reasons why I am looking forward to the next summer season!

Just recently, someone asked me an interesting question: What would you never wear? Well, okay, I immediately thought of quite a few things. And at the same time, I knew that the actual answer to the question was: “What will you be wearing in a year?”

I’ve read a few articles about that process – when you find something unattractive, then turn it into something that you actually find interesting or alluring. Because especially in the fashion world, where everything is changing all the time and even more is repeated or we’re constantly searching for something new that pleases our eye aesthetically, it’s a well-known phenomenon.

In my case, it’s mostly things that I didn’t even want to see again until recently. Things that I absolutely fell in love with and was completely obsessed with developed into the norm – and because of this became boring. I became bored with them, didn’t want to see them to the point that I quickly forgot about them. Then I would encounter them again after a long while, pleasantly reminding me of the pulsing cortex of an old love. And hup, – as if nothing had happened – I’m once again #obsessed.

At the risk that I will sound like all of my former fashion editors at once and in unison: thanks to my already medium-high age, I’ve now lived through a few of these fashion phases of on-again, off-again relationships. And for exactly this reason – and because it struck me as particularly easy – I bring to you nine reasons why I’m happy about the next summer season. (Yes, absurdly, exactly that one that will be in stores in February.)

SOFIA’S SLIP DRESS

SAINT LAURENT - BURBERRY - CHLOÈ - CELINE - CHRISTOPHER KANE - CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION - GIVENCHY

Sofia Coppola is one of these figures who has never! not once! not for a moment! allowed a stylistic slip. That’s why she’s the proud leader of my troupe of icons, who has the great talent to the transform the common slip dress into a glamorous evening dress. She looks neither under nor over dressed, but she achieves a real and irrefutably cool look. From Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent with his 90s and Glastonbury-inspired Skin Collection to Phoebe Philo’s little lace Céline dress (already selected by fashion editors worldwide as the “it”piece), there’s only one rule: The dress has to sit casually and loose on the body.

Viva Elvis

GUCCI - MARC JACOBS - HAIDER ACKERMANN - ALESSANDRA RICH - DRIES VAN NOTEN

I’ve wished many times in secret that Elvis was still alive. That said, if possible, please the young, hip-swinging Elvis. Whether in Hawaii, in Memphis or Vegas, I could care less. Main thing: Viva. How wonderful that among my favorite designers there are obviously one in five “Suspicious Minds.” Marc Jacob’s entire collection, from the glittering sailor look to the sparkling barrette placed on an oiled quaff, it’s more than “Tender.” And since the show on September 30, 2015, Dries van Noten’s heartbreaking color and material explosion is “Always on my Mind.”

Free Abbey

VETEMENTS - VALENTINO - ALTUZARRA - FERRAGAMO (SNEAKER) - VALENTINO - LOUIS VUITTON - ROSIE ASSOULIN

Australian model Abbey Lee struck me with her first season. In Milan she was exclusively booked for Gucci’s FW2008 show, so maybe it’s a coincidence that it’s also my favorite collection. At the time she walked as a brunette. Despite, or perhaps because of, her piercings (which at the time were definitely not mainstream) in the following years she could be found on the catwalks and in the campaigns of the hottest designers and in countless editorials in glossies. She changed her hair color to dirty blonde over white, to pink, then green and back again. She’s also fascinating because she could be the perfect Versace Barbie, but equally awesome and credible posing in front of Hedi Slimane’s camera, without makeup and sleepy and incredibly cool. Because yes, this woman also plays drums when she’s not modeling.

Since 2012, she’s been more or less out of the fashion circus, mainly because she, as we all know, developed an interest in acting and was busy filming Mad Max: Fury Road. And I have to say as an official non-Mad Max fan, this was one of the films that scary-in-a-good-way entertained me in 2015 (again, I’m sorry to the poor person in front of me in the IMAX, who definitely found my panic-stricken chair kicking less entertaining). It was, of course, the fault of that creepy apocalyptic brutality and the fantastic one-armed Charlize Theron. And!!! Abbey!!! Yes, she played herself. An ethereally beautiful white something that knows what it wants, and even if I can’t exactly think of more reasons right now, the whole thing was impressive. Et voilà. Abbey Lee Kershaw has returned from her “lost” status back to the stage and just like that is permanently back on my personal list of favorites.

Lately, with the hair at the Valentino show, it became clear to me: braided, fuzzy, faded streaks reminiscent of backpackers and full moon raves in Thailand was suddenly, as one says, en vogue.

The accompanying regalia consisted of lace up hoodies, practical sport sandals, with handmade-looking net inserts, surfer shorts and bikini tops, dominated by an orange karma color and naturally lots of batik! In a nutshell, that’s pretty much EVERYTHING that I did not want to wear over the last few years. What the good Miss Kershaw (who, incidentally, is known under her first and middle name) has been wearing for years. And so my personal happiness comes full circle.

Queen Margot (not nerdy Margot Tenenbaum)

CÉLINE - ELLERY - ETRO - PROENZA SCHOULER - ERDEM - THE ROW - ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

A film that I saw for the first time when I was 13: Queen Margot. Opulent and disturbing, enriched by Queen Margot’s naked wonderful Snow White skin and her kissable cherry red lips, played by Isabelle Adjani (an icon of French cinema). A monumental romanticization of a historical event, a brutal massacre of the Huguenots, accompanied by fraud, incest, adultery and intrigue in the French court is a fascinating horror to me – then as now – not only because of my historical curiosity is piqued, but also because of the brutal visual beauty of the film. Queen Margot is unforgettable as she stands there in her low-cut, white dress, soaked in the blood of her poisoned brother King Charles IX.

I’ve always been especially attracted to looks with bare shoulders and necks. And the veil fell from my eyes as I looked through all my favorites: Margot from Die Bartholomäusnacht (as Queen Margot was called in German) was exactly like the model from The Row in a very simple but dramatically bobbing floor-length coat as she strolled through the palace gardens. And have I already mentioned that Sarah Burton’s inspiration for her Alexander McQueen collection were the Huguenots (Protestants)?

Cigarettes & Alcohol Workout

MIU MIU - GUCCI BRILLE - CHLOÈ - MAISON MARGIELA - STELLA MCCARTNEY - GUCCI - LOEWE

Long story short: The fact that Kate Moss, style icon of the 90s, looked superhumanly cool is not news. Regardless, I want to remember her shuffling, dark red sneakers from Adidas here. Or alternatively, the almost adorably simply track jacket looks of the low class Gallaghers, aka the Riot Brothers. Needless to say, I delighted some people in my hometown of Ebersberg in Upper Bavaria by wearing brown track pants (with turquoise stripes!!!) with a midriff baring t-shirt (even now, a no go) – a throwback that I don’t really like to recall. But that can quickly change, as I noted at the outset.

The retro sport look, in this sense anyway, or perhaps for this reason, is very high on my hit list for next season. And not nerdy, like Wes Anderson, but fantastically cool and simply implemented for 2016. Always adapted to the code of each house: Clare Waight-Keller´s Chloé  girl wears the track suit á la Bohémienne, naturally, while Miuccia beguiles in her Miu Miu ladies polo shirt with a rhinestone tiara.

Sunday Techno

THE ROW - ALEXANDER MCQUEEN - LOUIS VUITTON - ALEXANDER WANG SANDALEN - VETEMENTS - ALEXANDER WANG

For anyone who doesn’t live on this planet or for some other reason hasn’t seen this incredibly funny video, first hit play.

Now there’s not so much to say. So I’ll get to my point: Berghain, after its title of the most famous techno club in the world, has become a trendsetter. That Claire Danes regrettably isn’t wearing the “Deutschland” look from Vetements is definitely because Ellen DeGeneres unfortunately plays “Bad Techno” in her video.

And for those, like me, who have never been to Berghain: don’t worry, we can continue to give free reign to our imagination. Everything that has been dismissed as bad (techno) taste – namely net shirts, clunky platforms and, of course, at one time or another heavy chains with a shiny baseball hat – are now being worn on the streets. P.S. Have I already said that I, as a huge fan of Homeland loved stalking “Carrie” as she was shopping in Soho House’s The Store? Who else has been watched with so much pleasure?

Learning from the Thin White Duke

HAIDER ACKERMANN - ACNE STUDIOS - CHANEL - GUCCI TASCHE - SAINT LAURENT - GUCCI

One of the questions that I like the least, especially when I don’t have time to think, is: “What kind of blazer should I buy?” This is mainly because I cannot decide and am therefore happily and completely motivated to buy more blazers.

Driven by the desire to finally have a decent answer, my choice fell immediately (surprisingly!) on this blazer, if only because I want to recommend “just” one blazer or if it’s because I’ve been looking for the perfect piece of it’s kind for several seasons, I couldn’t say. But the form excited me: generous in the shoulders, gladly with a distinctive lapel (but not a requirement) and best if it falls past the hips. Because, as you can see with the example from Acne Studios, this kind of blazer doubles as a mini dress. Otherwise the blazers in the SS16 collection aren’t nothing. Except that they look damn good – worn as though by Mr. Bowie himself, thanks to the amazing androgynous dose of femininity.

My Love is a Tango

CÉLINE - ISABEL MARANT - ETRO - BALLERINA VON MIU MIU - DIOR - VIKA GAZINSKAYA - MIU MIU

My addiction to series began with Anna. For those who are too young to have watched this multi-part pre-Christmas drama in real time, here are the hard facts: All, yes, really all, girls between the ages of four and 17 joined ballet classes abruptly and voluntarily in 1987. In every small city there were suddenly strict “Madames”, who attempted to subdue the sudden crowds of children. Everyone wore their hair in a bun, the more nerdy among us included a mesh net over it. Lace-up ballet shoes (black were the coolest) were worn proudly over shoulders and fathers had the honor of mounting ballet bars right across their children’s rooms. I joined the club at age six, but only held up for four years. But an enthusiasm for the performance of the now deceased Silvia Seidel as the ballet student Anna in the film and TV series of the same name still has its hold on me.

My sister and I love the yearly Anna afternoons with my goddaughter. We hope that she’ll continue to participate as a good teenager. All the greater is my joy that Anna’s look is experiencing a revival – even if it’s only in my head. With Isabel Marant’s sleek, shiny, knotted at the waist pants I immediately had to think of the hit of the series “My Love is a Tango” and the band from Paris. Dior´s delicately styled pink 80s sweater – that was the moment that I saw Anna practicing in my inner eye with Madame Kralova. And now the most important thing: the ballerina shoes! Just last year I was debating with myself whether I could finally get rid of my good old nude toned shoes from Repetto. Even if I brought myself to do it, it wouldn’t be a bad thing, because I absolutely also would have needed one or two of the grandiose satin designs with long ribbons from Miu Miu!!!

Stealing Beauty

WELLIES VON SAINT LAURENT - PHILOSOHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI - ETRO - KORB VON DOLCE & GABBANA - ALEXANDER MCQUEEN - ERDEM

The best always comes last. Maybe also because after enjoying Stealing Beauty you can’t think straight anymore. Lucy, played by Liv Tyler in her tender teenage years, is to blame. She’s one of these women that I’d like to transform myself into. Maybe even more than Pippi Longstocking or even the last unicorn. Thank you dear, wonderful designers, that are looking for a home for the exact same dream. I’ll definitely rummage out the film. And my last sentence for Thursday: overwhelmingly beautiful, romantic floral dresses are most becoming in proper doses and with bare feet, but can also be worn with rough boots.

Collagen: Julia Zierer
Translation: alicia Reuter