Final stop, Paris. Four weeks of fashion madness have come to an end. Energy reserves are noticeably depleted but the French capital compensated with a bang – in the best way, of course! Best people, best fashion, best atmosphere. Here it is, our last but not least review of Paris fashion week.
Personal highlight: The 90s sportswear look is back! The best workout jacket came from Chloé, paired with a floor length flowered skirt, naturally. The sporty pants in silver from Isabel Marant simply looked cool in combination with her signature “Berbere” pieces. The icing on the cake were the cycling shorts from Julien Dossena for Paco Rabanne.
Best Show: Louis Vuitton! At the Apple talk the night before I was asked what the future of fashion will look like. By the third look, I knew: Exactly like this! The model’s energy, the wonderful electro sound (including my favorite song “New Error” by Moderate) through a maze of screens with Christopher Nolan’s “Interstellar” playing on them. Fine braids, long hair, chunky platform sandals and perfect cowboy boots paired with board shorts and Victorian balloon dresses. The next day at the re-see, I reassured myself: My look for summer 2016 stands.
Best Dinner: Having the chance to witness Laura Brown’s personal discovery of caviar potatoes at Caviar Kaspia was a lot of fun. The executive editor of Harper’s Bazaar finally took a bit of time for Paris, Karl (Lagerfeld) and, of course, the aforementioned dinner. Afterwards, we quickly visited the “95 Years of Vogue Paris” party and immediately accepted Emmanuelle Alt’s invitation to dance. I can’t stay still if there are party hits from the 80s playing. Rihanna, Kanye, and Asap Rocky, surrounded by bodyguards in the smoking alcove, were a pleasant contrast.
Best Surprise: Magdalena Frackowiak! My favorite model showed her own (amazing) 18 karat gold jewelry at the romantic Lapérouse. A beauty venturing in another creative direction.
Most Moving Moment: Valentino, of course! The soundtrack to “The Last of the Mohicans” underlined incredibly exquisite embroidered robes (my favorite was the tribal batik anorak). I left the tent in the Tuileries laughing and crying at the same time, knowing it doesn’t get better than this!
Other After Effects: Common features emerged towards the end of fashion week. One was the lingerie slip dresses (Céline, Balenciaga, Saint Laurent, Calvin Klein). The cool body chains from Calvin Klein in New York were seen again at Alexander McQueen (a beautiful collection inspired by the Huguenots) and quite reduced at Valentino with a choker integrated into the dress.
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Best Meeting and People: Since Veronika did an exemplary job filling her time with shows and showrooms, my course was meetings. Cafés, teas, glasses of Badoit water and a few white wine spritzers later, working my way from one meeting to the next with a head full of good input. A favorite moment of the week was getting to know Jina Khayyer, who was already interviewed here by Anne Philippi about her latest book. Closely followed by a short stop at Colette, where we met the magical Gaia Repossi (jewelry dynasty) and Sarah Andelman (co-founder of Colette). A few minutes later we were were walking down the street and ran into photographer Annemarieke van Drimmelen, who we had done a shooting with a few days before which has now been posted on Instagram. All super power women that we think are amazing.
Best Label: Silly description, but still worth a mention. In Isabel Marant’s showroom a feature in FT was brought to our attention and after I read it, what was always evident to me was even clearer: The economic machinery behind the eponymous Isabel Marant label is the most clever that exists at the moment (next to Saint Laurent). Good and interesting reading, smart woman!
Best News: Balenciaga steals the show from Louis Vuitton and Miu Miu by announcing that Demna Gvasalia is the successor to Alexander Wang. And this on the last day of the shows before seven in the morning.
Best Newcomer: When we arrive at the topic of newcomers. Chambre Syndicale is a breath of fresh air, rising in the rankings this season with six new labels of haute couture on the official show schedule. Designers Sebastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, who are now responsible for the Courrèges label, were celebrated.
What Else Was Discussed: The gender debate is inevitable even in the fashion industry. In the NY Times Vanessa Friedman wrote about Female Monday, the overload of women designers on this day of the week. Stella McCartney, reviewed by Sarah Burton for McQueen about her “freest” collection ever. Cheers to Julie de Libran at Sonia Rykiel.
Best Surprise: The Row showed for 50 buyers at a château (the inspiration for the latest collection) about an hour outside of Paris, turning the hectic schedules into absolute chaos. “If need be, we’ll show next season on Mars,” joked the PR woman in reaction to the question of whether it means that the label is turning its back on New York and moving to Paris.