Recap: New York Fashion Week September 2015

NYFW-Recap Header final

Fashion Week in New York was the start of a season that will likely be marked by changes. The greatest noticeable break: The essential fashion portal Style.com will, until it is transformed into an e-Commerce website, be replaced by coverage on Voguerunway.com. Also, missing from the front rows after her recent drop-out from Net-a-Porter: Natalie Massenet. Tim Blanks is now at Business of Fashion (BoF). Marc by Marc Jacobs has been integrated into their main line. And here we are with our personal highlights.

Veronika goes first

  • Personal Highlight: The show from Marc Jacobs. A bombastic spectacle! The models walked into the hall from a red carpet on the street in front of Ziegfeld theatre and were broadcast live on a screen with 20-piece band playing in front of it. Probably a bit too loud, because the electric guitarist passed earplugs to Joshua Schulman, president of Bergdorf Goodman and Mytheresa. Apparently, not a single piece was ready the night before the show, but everything still looked so fantastic: Back to the roots! Knitted, holey sweaters over glittering evening dresses, with sequined ribbons, omnipresent American flags on T-shirts, metallic jackets with leather fringes and patchwork pants. Silver screen moody make-up, just like the morning after.
  • Best Shows: Calvin Klein. The same idea here: The morning after and a revival referencing the label’s roots – every variation of their legendary slip-dresses from the 90s. From ivory silk to photoshop print flowers to black sequins with a grungy feel. Good details: The body chains over the dresses. Styled with slip-on sneakers and large ankle chains, sometimes on both ankles. Altuzarra was dominated by a super chic tie-dye pattern and my favorite 70s color spectrum from orange, light blue and grass green to dark blue. There was a new square-shaped bag and beautiful lace-up high heels, which were espadrilles inspired.
  • Best Dinner: With Edun at the Waverly Inn, my favorite restaurant in New York. I sat next to Ada Kokosar, a stylist whose work and appearance I’ve been following for years (her trademarks are her wild dark blonde mane and oversized coats, her collaboration with & Other Stories just hit the stores). In moments it felt as though I had known her forever. The director Gary Jermyn wore a T-shirt created by Todd Selby (who is Edun designer Danielle Sherman´s husband). The shirt was printed with cute shapeless snails. Also there: Jessica Alba, who, up close, seems to be a mix of caramel and honey, the musicians Michael Stipe and Lykke Li and, of course, Ali Hewson, wife of U2 legend Bono and owner of her own eponymous label. She brought along her charming daughters.
  • Best Surprises: The Australian swimwear label Zimmermann showed wonderful mini dresses in lace with great buckle pumps. The show was styled by a good friend of mine, Michelle Jank, an Austrian-Australian currently developing the costumes for a premier at the Munich Opera in December. And Coach: The patchwork sea of flowers reminded me of my 2002 all-time favorite Nicolas Ghesquière collection from Balenciaga.

Impressions from NYFW

Julia Knolle

  • Best Show: Givenchy. What market positioning! There were two messages at the ceremonial opening of the new flagship stores: The collection was a best-of from designer Riccardo Tisci oeuvre, who showed what he does best: A bit of lace and flowing silk, only in black and white (that’s where he got me: MONOCHROME!). The spectacular scenery of the waterfront show was staged together with his good friend, artist Marina Abramovic, on the anniversary of 9/11. The meaning was clear: Love is the message. That soon all nations, regardless of religion, could live peacefully beside each other. The musical outro corresponded: It sounded like Ave Maria. Perhaps everything was laid on a bit thick, but it was still touching in the end.
  • Best Surprise: Mansur Gavriel makes shoes now, and they’re quite magnificent. Suede mules, which unfortunately – as you could see in the presentation – were a bit too inspired by the models of New York shop owner, stylist and designer Maryam Nassir Zadeh. The more the merrier: Next summer you’ll simply need one of each!
  • Secret Star: The sneakers from Eytys, seen here and there on model’s feet. At Sandy Liang, for example. At this point we’ll say that before long both these newcomers are sure to be very successful.
  • Best Supporting Impression: In New York above all, my beloved white wine has no taste and the dishes are pulled from under your nose before you’re actually finished. As unsociable and uncultivated as that all may be, at a lunch in Bar Pitti, Charlotte Gainsbourg and actress Greta Gerwig were sitting next to me – so I will gladly accept it as compensation.
  • Biggest Downer: Because of a collective reading error, we missed the super installation from Refinery29 in Brooklyn. To celebrate their ten-year anniversary a warehouse was transformed into #29 rooms with different motifs. A playground for adults that we could only view enviously on Instagram.
  • Favorite Meeting: A drink with Elisabeth von Thurn und Taxis. An hour of compressed exchanges in the Bowery Hotel’s winter garden about the future of the media that interests us and the most exciting turns in New York’s fashion industry.
  • Best Product: Amy Odell on Women and Self Promotion. She almost reads my mind: I often ask myself what’s gotten into people taking selfies as they’re walking down the street, and then I’m always torn when I look at my dearly beloved Veronika and see how charming a bit of posing can be. As always answer seems to be that everything can be enjoyed in moderation – above all when someone like Mrs. Odell is advertising – or let’s say self-promoting – a newly published book.
TRANSLATION: ALICIA REUTER