Stella McCartney

Recap: Milan Fashion Week September 2015

© Collage Julia Zierer

This season, fashion media agreed, Milan has awoken from its slumber. What this means  for runway designs – it’s never boring here in comparison to the other three fashion week destinations: Always very colorful and loud, like an overdose of espresso. Fast forward seven days, and Veronika reports on her personal experiences as we both travel on to Paris.

Best show: Gucci! Thanks to Alessandro Michele for this feast for the eyes of a collection! Already on my shopping list: the flat green loafers with pearl heels, the green brocade suite with a ladybug tie, the oversized glitter sunglasses, the flared tracksuit with embroidery, the crocodile bag with stripes … and the list goes on forever. A little fun fact: Almost every editor in Milan was wearing at least one piece from Gucci, including myself.

Dream on: The most beautiful, romantic, frilly dresses in lace or chiffon were presented by Etro and Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini (this was his second show and I’m a big fan!).

Most beautiful dinner: The elegant evening in honor of Edgardo Osorio (Creative Director of Aquazzura) for Salvatore Ferragamo’s capsule collection. The whole thing took place in Fulvia Ferragamo’s beautiful city palazzo and began with a request to not take any photos. To my surprise, without exception every guest heeded the request and after a short wave of Instagram-control-stress, I realized that not only was the private sphere respected, but the table talk became a lot more exciting too. Elegantly presented on a huge screen to the left of me  was a football game. Inter Milano versus AC Florence. Surely Ferruccio Ferragamo (the head of the family empire) secretly thought missing the game would be extremely unchic.

How to do a show: You can very clearly learn this from Donatella Versace. Take a bombastic, dark factory hall, fill it with the likes of Riccardo Tisci, Naomi Campbell and Heidi Klum (hence the fashion groupie crowd at the door) and garnish the whole thing with techno beats that resonate to the bone. At the first exit with super babe Raquel Zimmerman in a mini military blazer you realize how Berghain would look in Italy. Boom!!!

Best presentation: The second coup of Francesca Ruffini – like last season it was presented in her own living room. The elegant pajama collection of her label F.R.S now includes several themes from classic silk prints, simple “Sofia-Coppola-worthy” cotten models with initials over 70s housecoats and brocaded tunics. Simply put – I want to move in with the Ruffinis and think that I could even arrive without luggage.

Fun: Charlotte Olympia’s collaboration with Mac (planned for next year) includes fantastic plastic pedicure ballet flats, small and light in any handbag.

A traditional house with a new address: Franca Sozzani, editor in chief of Vogue Italy is clever and held her meetings in the newly opened Pasticceria Marchesi at Via Monte Napoleone 9. Their wonderful treats can be enjoyed while sitting, in contrast to the original store near Corso Magenta, which has been in operation for 191 years.

Accessory Spotlight: The “Strap You” bag from Fendi. The straps are reminiscent of guitar straps and different versions are available to switch them up.

Highlight: The Dolce show always guarantees a good mood. In the voice of Tim Blanks: “You simply must be an ass if you didn’t like the Dolce & Gabbana show.” – I can only agree: Models with ornate headphones, camera bags and cute wicker baskets in delightful dresses and wonderful pajamas pranced down the runway to Italian pop songs taking selfies from time to time.

Translation: Alicia Reuter